The International Selkirk Loop for Wheelchair-Users
Billed as America’s only multi-national scenic drive, the International Selkirk Loop (selkirkloop.org) traverses Northeastern Idaho and Washington, and dips into a swath of Southern British Columbia. This 280-mile loop is known for its spectacular scenery, big skies, crystal clear waterways and of course the namesake Selkirk Range.
Although it can be easily done as a stand alone trip, because of its proximity to Interstate 90, it can also be incorporated into a longer road trip. The scenery along the route is beautiful year-round; however summer is prime time for this drive, as many business and attractions are closed in the other seasons. Wheelchair-users and slow walkers are in luck too, as there are numerous accessible stops along the way. With that in mind, here’s a three-day wheelchair-accessible itinerary for this Pacific Northwest scenic drive.
Day 1 — Post Falls, ID to Bonners Ferry, ID
To get to the International Selkirk Loop from Interstate 90, take exit 5 in Post Falls, Idaho. From there, follow Highway 41 north through Rathdrum, Spirit Lake, and Blanchard to Highway 2 in Oldtown. To go directly to the Selkirk Loop, make a right on Highway 2; however if you’d like a fun little detour just a mile off the route, continue straight and follow the signs to Pioneer Park
An Accessible Forest Hike
One of the great things about Pioneer Park is that since it’s a US Forest Service area, there’s no charge to enter if you have an America the Beautiful Access Pass. The other great thing about the park is the accessible Kalispel Heritage Trail. It’s easy to find — just take the first left after you enter the park, and look for the trailhead on the left, across from the campground.
The hard-packed dirt loop is about .3 miles long, and although there are elevation changes here and there, it’s still within the access guidelines. The shaded trail winds through the forest, with interpretive plaques about the the language and culture of the native Kalispel people along the way. Important native vegetation is also identified. An accessible boardwalk that offers some great views of the Pend Oreille River is located halfway along the trail. And if you’d like to stop and enjoy the peaceful view, there are benches near the overlook.
A Great Dam Lunch on the International Selkirk Loop
After your hike, head back out to Highway 2, then make a left to begin your journey on the International Selkirk Loop. About 15 minutes up the road, you’ll find Albeni Falls Dam (facebook.com/AlbeniFallsDam) on your right. Not only does it make a nice scenic stop, but it’s also a great place to enjoy a picnic lunch.
There’s level access to a shaded picnic area from the upper parking lot; however most folks completely miss the lower picnic choice down by the dam. The trail to the right of the upper picnic area is too steep for wheelchair-users and slow walkers to descend; however you don’t have to walk down as there is an accessible road to the left of the visitor center. Just follow the sign to the powerhouse.
At the bottom of the road there’s level access to a picnic area that offers an expansive view of the Pend Oreille River, Albeni Falls Dam, and of course the powerhouse. It’s a pleasant place to stop, even if you don’t plan to picnic. And if you need to use the facilities, accessible restrooms are located inside the visitor center near the upper parking area.
A Little History and Horticulture
Continue along Highway 2, through the pine and fir forest for about 40 minutes to get to your next stop — the Bonner County History Museum (bonnercountyhistory.org/visit.html) and the North Idaho Native Plant Arboretum. Located in Lakeview Park in Sandpoint, both of these sites can be accessed from the parking lot on South Ella Avenue.
There’s a paved pathway from the accessible parking spot to the accessible entrance of the Bonner County History Museum. Inside there’s plenty of room to roll around the first-floor galleries; however the small second floor exhibit can only be accessed by stairs. There’s also a wheelchair-accessible family restroom downstairs.
The first floor contains a mix of permanent and rotating exhibits; but perhaps the most interesting installation is “Digging into the Past”. When a nearby highway was widened in 2006, archeologists set to work to unearth treasures from the past. Their finds are showcased in this exhibit, which is arranged by the different geographical areas in town. Highlights include a Dr. Scholl’s Foot-Ezer, a collection of opium pipes discovered near the former Chinese laundry, and some interesting objects unearthed in the brothel district.
Add in some permanent installations about the work of the forest service, a little watercraft and railroad history, and a a primer on logging in North Idaho, for a comprehensive look at the history of the area.
Outside there are level pathways through the mostly shaded arboretum,. There are a few dips and ruts in the dirt pathways, but for the most part they are easy to dodge. The historic cabin is not accessible, but it’s usually locked. The five-acre arboretum features North Idaho native and medicinal plants, and also includes herbs, fruit trees and edibles. And there are lots of benches if you’d just like to sit and relax.
Walk on the Wild Side
The next stop on the International Selkirk Loop — the Kootenai Wildlife Refuge (www.fws.gov/refuge/kootenai) — is just a 45-minute drive up the road. Continue east on Highway 2 for about 35 minutes, until you get to Bonners Ferry; then make a left on Pine Island Road (just past the ranger station). To be honest this turn is easy to miss, so it’s best to turn into the ranger station for easier access to the road. From there, make a right on Mirror Lake Road and and left on Riverside Drive. The refuge headquarters is about four miles up the road on the right.
There’s accessible parking near the refuge office and accessible restrooms next door. A sheltered accessible spotting scope is also located on the far side of the parking lot. The accessible Chickadee Trail begins just to the left of the refuge office. This 1,000-foot paved cement loop winds through the pines and around the pond, with interpretive plaques along the way.
The Myrtle Falls Trail is located across the street. This wide paved trail winds through the forest and out to a bridge that offers a great view of roaring Myrtle Creek below. The trail loses its access on the other side of the bridge, but it’s a nice .25-mile round-trip jaunt out to the roaring rapids.
Finally, make sure and drive the 4.5-mile auto loop before your leave the refuge. There are a number of interpretive plaques at pullouts along the way, and some great windshield views. Be on the lookout for Northern harriers, red-tailed hawks and American kestrels hunting over the wide open fields. And keep your eye out for the resident bald eagle pair that nests there in the spring.
A Blast From the Past
Finally, for a taste of local history on the International Selkirk Loop, make a stop at the Boundary County Museum (boundarycountymuseum.org) before you call it a day. Just backtrack on Riverside Drive along the levee for about 30 minutes until you get to town. Make a right on Main Street, and take the next left on Bonner Street. Although the museum is located on Main Street, the best accessible parking is behind the museum, next to the visitor center.
There’s barrier-free access throughout the museum, and accessible restrooms inside. This local mainstay includes a little bit of everything, from a large exhibit about the Kootenai Tribe and a collection of hand made clocks by Ned Dyer, to a still discovered nearby, lots of vintage furniture, appliances and dishes, and even some seats from the old Bonner County High School Auditorium. And don’t miss the recreation of the Historic White Caribou Saloon, which includes a variety of taxidermy, including the namesake white caribou.
Be aware that the museum has limited hours — usually Thursday through Saturday — so make sure and time your visit accordingly. Even if it’s not open, there is level access from the accessible parking in back to some outside exhibits that focus on early railroads and farming methods. There’s also level access to a covered picnic table on a cement pad. It’s just a fun — and educational — stop.
And if you’d like more maps and information on North Idaho and British Columbia, then pop in to the visitor center just across the parking lot from the museum. There’s level access to the lobby and accessible restrooms around the corner. To complete your first day 125-mile drive, hop back on Highway 2 and continue around the curve, to the Kootenai River Inn on your left.
Spend the Night
The Kootenai River Inn (kootenairiverinn.com) is a great place to overnight. Not only does it offer good access, but it also includes a few restaurants and a casino. Accessible parking is located near the lobby door, with barrier-free access over to the front desk. And although there’s a barrier-free pathway to accessible room 125 from the lobby, there’s also additional accessible parking closer to the room.
Access features in room 125 include wide doorways, lever handles, low-pile carpet for easy rolling, a lowered closet rod and good pathway access. It’s furnished with a 28-inch high king-sized bed with wheelchair access on both sides, a chest of drawers and an easy chair with an ottoman. The spacious room also includes a table with two chairs, a microwave and a refrigerator.
There’s level access out to a private balcony that’s furnished with a table and two chairs. And although there’s room enough for a wheelchair out there, you’ll probably have to move the patio furniture around a bit. Best of all, the balcony boasts a peaceful river view.
The oversized bathroom includes a full five-foot turning radius and is equipped with a large roll-in shower with grab bars and a hand-held showerhead. A shower chair is also available upon request. The toilet grab bars are located on the back and right walls (as seated), and a roll-under sink is located right outside the bathroom.
There’s good access to all the public areas of the property, including the Springs Restaurant, the Riverside Deli and the casino. Breakfast is also included with your stay. The staff is attentive, and the Kootenai River Inn is a comfortable and accessible place to spend the night.
Day 2 — Bonners Ferry, ID to Balfour, BC
After a good nights rest, continue along Highway 2 on the International Selkirk Loop. The route only covers 90 miles today; however it also involves a border crossing so it doesn’t hurt to get an early start.
Crossing the Border
From Bonners Ferry continue on Highway 2, cross the Kootenay River, then head east on Highway 95. About 75 miles up the road, take Highway 1 to the Porthill-Rykerts border crossing. It’s just under a two-hour drive.
Although Canadian entry requirements may vary due to COVID outbreaks, currently there are no restrictions, extra paperwork or health screenings required to enter Canada by car. All vehicle occupants are required to have a passport, and you will also be asked questions about alcohol, firearms, and other items you may be carrying.
Border crossing times can vary, depending on traffic and staffing. A list of wait times and delays at Canadian ports of entry can be found at cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/bwt-taf/menu-eng.html. And it’s also a good idea to keep updated on the latest border crossing requirements. More information can be found at cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/menu-eng.html. The good news is that the once you arrive at the Porthill-Rykerts border crossing it’s a fairly expeditious process, as there’s not a lot of traffic there.
Creston Wildlife Management Area
After you enter Canada, US Highway 1 transitions into Canadian Highway 21. From the border it’s a short 20 minute hop up to the Corn Creek section of the Creston Wildlife Management Area (crestonwildlife.ca). It’s located off of Highway 3, just northeast of Creston.
There’s no striped parking in the paved lot next to the Discovery Center at Corn Creek, but there’s usually plenty of room to parallel park an adapted vehicle. The Discovery Center — which has exhibits and information — is ramped, and there’s an accessible porta-potty in the parking lot. The boardwalk trail is right behind the Discovery Center.
Theoretically the whole boardwalk loop is accessible, as it’s relatively flat; however a large patch of tall grass at the midway point makes it impassable for most wheelchair-users and slow walkers. That said, you can do this trail as two out-and-back sections.
To do the first section, make a left turn after you cross the bridge behind the Discovery Center. The short hard-packed dirt trail is level but narrow, and it soon transitions to a boardwalk over the marsh. The accessible part of this half-mile round trip jaunt ends at the end of the boardwalk, when you hit the tall grass, near the viewing tower. It’s a half-mile round-trip hike.
To access the second section of the boardwalk loop, turn right after you cross the bridge behind the Discovery Center. A .3-mile dirt and boardwalk trail leads to the viewing tower near the tall grass. From there you can continue on the .4-mile hard-packed dirt Songbird Stroll out to West Creston Road. If you do the whole length it’s a nice 1.4-mile out-and-back hike. And when you’re done, stop for lunch at the shaded picnic table near the Discovery Center.
Hop on a Ferry
To continue on the International Selkirk Loop, head east on Highway 3, then go north on Highway 3A. It’s about a 1.5-hour drive to Kootenay Bay, where you can catch the longest free ferry in the world. The drive along the way is nothing to sneeze at though, as the road winds through a lush forest and offers a peek at Kootenay Lake every now and again.
The Kootenay Lake Ferry www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/transportation/passenger-travel/water-travel/inland-ferries/kootenay-lake-ferry) runs from Kootenay Bay to Balfour year-round; however it operates on a reduced schedule in the winter. In the summer the ferry operates on a hourly schedule from 7:10 AM to 10:20 PM; however since this is the peak season there may be a wait for the next ferry, so allow some extra time. The summer schedule begins the third week of June, and ends after Labor Day.
The crossing itself takes just 35 minutes, and as indicated earlier, it’s free. Access isn’t really an issue as most folks just stay in their vehicles, roll down their car windows and enjoy the ride; in fact in some cases the cars are parked so close together that you can’t open your car door. Still it’s a pleasant crossing, and you just can’t beat the price.
Overnight in Canada on the International Selkirk Loop
Once you arrive in Balfour, it’s just a short drive to your home for the night — the Kootenay Lakeview Resort (kootenaylakeviewresort.com). Not only does it boast a nice accessible room, but as the name implies, it also has an impressive view of Kootenay Lake.
There are no stripes in the lower lobby parking lot, but there’s room enough to parallel park an adapted vehicle, and there’s level access over to the front door. Inside there’s plenty of room to maneuver a wheelchair over to the front desk and the adjacent breakfast area.
Room 206 — an accessible king — is located a short drive away, with accessible parking near the building. There’s ramp access up to the building, and a slight lip at the room door. Access features include wide doorways, lever handles, low-pile carpet for easy rolling and good pathway access.
The room is furnished with a 26-inch high king-sized bed with wheelchair-access on the right side (as you face it). Other furnishings include a table, an easy chair, a desk with a chair and a chest of drawers. There’s also a microwave and a refrigerator in the room. A threshold ramp leads out to the balcony which includes two plastic chairs and a small table, and offers plenty of room for a wheelchair. And you just can’t beat that lake view!
The bathroom has a wide pocket door and a full five-foot turning radius. It’s equipped with a roll-in shower with grab bars, a hand-held showerhead and a fold-down shower bench. Other access features include toilet grab bars on the right wall (as seated), a lowered towel rod and a roll-under sink.
Top it all off with a light breakfast in the morning, and you have a very comfy place to rest your head.
Day 3 — Balfour, BC to Newport, WA
Get an early start on the final day of your International Selkirk Loop drive, as it’s the longest leg of the drive — 135 miles — with lots to see and do along the way.
Take a Hike
From Balfour, head west on Highway 3A to Nelson, then take Highway 6 south to the Nelway-Metaline border crossing. The drive takes about an hour and twenty minutes, and again, the lush forest lines the road for most of the trip.
The border crossing back into the US is pretty straightforward. No extra paperwork is required — you just need your passport or drivers license. There’s usually not much of a line at this outpost, but you can check wait times and operating hours at cbp.gov. It’s always a good idea to check the website before you travel, as entry requirements can change.
Continue south on Highway 31 for about 10 miles, make a left on Sullivan Lake Road, then continue on for about three miles. The Mill Pond Heritage Site (fs.usda.gov/recarea/colville/recarea/?recid=71047) will be on your right. Go all the way down to the lower parking lot, where you will find accessible parking next to two trailheads.
The most accessible trail — the Mill Pond Flume Loop — begins just across the bridge, about a quarter-mile from the parking lot. This level hard-packed dirt loop winds through the former work camp of the old mill. Interpretive plaques that describe the flume construction and maintenance procedures are located along the way. It’s a pleasant .6-mile loop through the forest, but be sure to apply insect repellent before you set out, as the mosquitoes are thick in the shady sections.
Additionally, if you’d like to dine alfresco there’s also a nice covered picnic area with accessible tables in the upper parking lot. An accessible vault toilet is also located nearby.
Metaline Falls
If, on the other hand, you’d like to have someone else do the cooking, then head on down the road to the quaint hamlet of Metaline Falls. For the best access, parallel park on Washington Street, near the visitor center in Busta Park. From there, it’s a short level walk to the Farmhouse Cafe (facebook.com/farmhousecafe221), which is located across the street on 5th Avenue.
There’s ramp access to this local eatery, with plenty of room to maneuver a wheelchair inside. Menu choices range from burgers and hot or cold sandwiches, to plated dishes served with soup or salad. The servers are friendly and the portions are substantial. Make sure and save room for a slice of home made pie for dessert.
After lunch, save some time to browse through the visitor center in the park. There’s ramp access up to the old rail car that houses the visitor center, and room enough to maneuver a wheelchair around the exhibits. There’s lots of visitor information, maps, historic photos of the area, and some old relics. And if you are in need of reading material, there’s also a nice collection of books that are free for the taking.
Where the Buffalo Roam
Continue south on Highway 31 to catch a gander at the Kalispel Tribe’s buffalo herd in Cusick. Turn left on Kings Lake Road in Usk, which is about 45 miles from Metaline. From there, cross the Pend Oreille River and make the first left on Le Clerc Road. It’s about 1.5 miles to Camas Center, which is near the area where the herd is located. The heard began with just 12 buffalo that were presented to the tribe by the National Park Service in 1974. Today it has grown to over 100 head, which roam throughout the reservation.
Of course, since the buffalo are mobile, they’re not in the same place every day. Sometimes you can spot them from the Camas Center parking lot, while other times you’ll get a better view a little further up the road. There’s a level place to pull over just north of Camas Center, which sometimes offers a close look at the massive beasts. And if they wander further south, there’s a nice wide level spot to pull out near the mailboxes.
Truth be told you never know where they will be grazing on any particular day. So just consider it a treasure hunt on the International Selkirk Loop. Actually, tracking them down is half the fun. And if you visit in spring, bring your binoculars and keep an eye out for the newborn calves.
A Little History and a Scoop
Newport, which is just 20 miles away, marks the official end to the International Selkirk Loop. That said, take some time to explore the history museum and have a sweet treat, before you head on your way.
Located next to the Newport Visitor Center on Highway 2 and Washington Street, the Pend Oreille County Historical Museum (pochsmuseum.org) offers visitors a peek into the past of Northeastern Washington. Accessible parking is located in front of the museum, at the far end of the parking lot across from the train depot.
There’s level access to the front door, with plenty of room to navigate around the first-floor and outdoor exhibits. Inside you’ll find everything from rodeo gear, vintage toys and cooking tools, to an old dentist office and even a Newport Miner printing press. Outside there are a variety of vintage buildings, including three log cabins, the Claire Howe Schoolhouse and a pioneer church. The ground around the exhibits is level, but there are a few rocks here and there. Vintage artifacts are tucked into every nook and cranny, and if you get tired there are plenty of places to sit and rest.
When you’re done browsing through the museum, be sure and stop in at Owen’s (facebook.com/owensgro), which is located across the street. There’s level access to this deli and grocery store, but the main attraction is the soda fountain, which offers a wide variety of ice cream treats. From a huckleberry ice cream cone to a hot fudge sundae or even a banana split, there’s something to please just about everyone. And it’s the perfect way to top off any International Selkirk Loop adventure.