Built in 1924 Kelso Depot was more than just a train depot, as it also included employee sleeping quarters as well as a full-service restaurant. The Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad constructed the facility in order to compete with the popular Harvey Houses operated by the Santa Fe Railroad. Kelso Depot was upscale for the time, and it even had a billiard room and a library. The depot ceased functioning in 1962, although the restaurant remained open until 1985. Today it houses the visitor center for the Mojave National Preserve.
Kelso Depot is pretty easy to find — just take Kelebaker Road from Baker, and continue on through the desert for 34 miles until you reach the historic site. Accessible parking is located in front of the depot, with level access over to the visitor center and the nearby accessible restrooms. Inside there’s barrier-free access throughout the facility, which includes interpretive exhibits about the Mojave National Preserve. Additionally the baggage room, ticket office and two dormitory rooms are furnished as they would have been in the 1920s. Even if the visitor center is closed, you can still get a gander at the lunch counter, vintage desks and old equipment through the large front windows. It’s definitely worth a stop while exploring the Mojave National Preserve.
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Once the headquarters of the Santa Fe Railway, Las Vegas, New Mexico has undergone a cultural rebirth. After the railway offices relocated from Las Vegas to Albuquerque in 2007, merchants moved away, and businesses suffered. Soon shuttered buildings lined the streets, while grand old gems fell into disrepair.
Then in 2014 local developer Allan Affeldt purchased two deteriorated properties — the Plaza Hotel and the Castaneda Hotel. His talented team quickly set to work to restore the properties, and soon other businesses jumped on the restoration bandwagon. As a result, today Las Vegas is the perfect road trip stop for anyone interested in railway history, the Santa Fe Trail, or the old west. And thanks to the inclusive thinking of Affeldt’s design team, wheelchair-users and slow walkers can also explore this historic railroad town.
Railroad History 101
The best place to begin a Las Vegas, New Mexico visit is at the historic train depot. Constructed in 1899 the current red brick building replaces the former 1881 wood structure. In 2000 the depot underwent a complete rehabilitation as part of a $1.2 million project; and it was subsequently featured the movie, All the Pretty Horses.
In addition to the Amtrak waiting room, the depot also houses a visitor information center. There’s accessible parking in front, with barrier-free access to the depot. Take some time to look around the trackside of the building after checking out the restored interior. Then pick up a map and head out to explore the city.
Before you hop back in your car, follow the brick walkway on the trackside of the depot over to the Castaneda Hotel (emerginghorizons.com/the-castaneda-hotel-a-wheelchair-accessible-harvey-house/) next door. From there an accessible pathway winds around to the side, where there’s ramp access up to this renovated 1898 Harvey House. Even if you don’t spend the night, take some time to explore the stately lobby, or stop in to have a drink at the bar. Train buffs will also want to consult the Amtrak schedule, as the Southwest Chief still stops in Las Vegas, New Mexico twice daily.
The Castaneda Hotel In Las Vegas, New Mexico
Don’t miss the restored Rawlins Building, which is located across the street from the Castaneda Hotel. Once a Harvey Girls dormitory, this 1898 gem now houses upstairs apartments and a downstairs retail space. And the outside of the building boasts an impressive restored Mesker sheet metal facade.
A Blast From the Past
City of Las Vegas Museum and Rough Rider Memorial Collection
For a good primer on the background and lifestyle of some of Las Vegas’ more colorful settlers, stop in at the City of Las Vegas Museum and Rough Rider Memorial Collection (www.visitlasvegasnm.com/things-to-do/rough-rider-museum/), which is just a short drive from the Castaneda Hotel. Accessible parking is located on the side of the building, with barrier-free access to the front door of this 1940 Works Progress Administration Project building.
Inside there’s plenty of room to maneuver a wheelchair or scooter around the downstairs galleries, which contain exhibits about the city’s past and present residents. From old WWII gear, a model of a typical Northern New Mexican adobe home, to information on the Santa Fe Trail and even an old 1855 bell that once hung in the chapel of La Conception, there’s something for just about everyone in this hometown museum. Top it off with a collection of vintage hats, quilts and fashions, and you have a comprehensive look at Las Vegas of yesteryear.
One of the most interesting galleries in the museum features gear, photographs and documents of Theodore Roosevelt’s 1st US Voluntary Calvary Regiment, also known as the Rough Riders. The collection includes items from the Cuban Campaign of the 1898 Spanish-American War, as well as the first reunion of the unit, which was held in 1899 in Las Vegas. Interestingly enough, Roosevelt was one of the first guests at the newly constructed Castaneda Hotel at that reunion. And don’t miss the touching hand-written letter from Eleanor Roosevelt to the last surviving member of the unit.
Explore the Plaza
Front entry to the Plaza Hotel in Las Vegas, New Mexico
Last but certainly not least, no Las Vegas visit is complete without a stop at historic Plaza Park. Located just a few miles from the Castaneda Hotel, the stately Plaza Hotel (www.plazahotellvnm.com) is the cornerstone building in this historic district. Built in 1882 by land baron Benigno Romero and associates, it was one of the fanciest hotels in the Southwest. Overlooking Plaza Park, the three-story brick structure sports 14-foot ceilings, while fanciful scrolls adorn the plaza-side windows. Although the property was operational when Affeldt purchased it, he preformed needed repairs, added upgrades and expanded the hotel to the adjacent Charles Ilfeld Building.
Take some time to explore the main-floor lobby and public areas of this historic structure, which now has ramp access up to the front door. There’s plenty of room to maneuver a wheelchair or scooter around the lobby area; and an accessible family restroom is located near the gift shop. Don’t miss the massive walnut staircase that dominates the lobby, which was where Javier Bardem cornered Woody Harrelson in the 2007 flick No Country for Old Men.
There’s also barrier-free access to The Prairie Hill Cafe, which is located in the hotel. Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant features a menu filled with local flavor. Alternatively if you’d like to enjoy an adult beverage, stop by the equally accessible Byron T’s Saloon on the lobby level.
Save some time for a stroll through Plaza Park, which is just across the street from the hotel. Accessible sidewalks crisscross the park, and there are a number of benches to sit and enjoy the ambiance. There are also a few sculptures and a gazebo located in the park. Not only is it a grand people-watching venue, but it’s also a very relaxing way to top off a historic Las Vegas, New Mexico visit.
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Opened in 1911, Casa Del Desierto was considered the crown jewel of the infamous Harvey House chain. This Barstow icon provided elegant meals and comfortable overnight accommodations for passengers of the Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe Railway; and also housed an elegant ballroom for dances and other social events. Today this stately structure not only offers visitors a glimpse into the past, but it also houses the Western America Railroad Museum.
The museum’s collection is comprehensive — some claim it borders on eclectic — while a cadre of enthusiastic volunteers eagerly await the opportunity to share their collective railroad knowledge with visitors. Exhibits include everything from railroad tools and machines, to vintage schedules, uniforms, dinnerware and signs. And then there’s the model railroad. Access is excellent at the museum too, with accessible parking in the adjacent lot and plenty of room to maneuver a wheelchair throughout the galleries.
There’s also a nice collection of rolling stock out in the yard, with level access around the cars. Highlights include an Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe caboose and diesel engine, a 1968 Cline wheel truck, and a Union Pacific caboose. There’s also a large Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe horse car, that was used to transport race horses and their owners across the country. And although the cars themselves do not offer wheelchair access, most of them are better admired from afar.
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The Great Northern Railroad played an essential role in the development of the infrastructure of Glacier National Park (emerginghorizons.com/glacier-national-park/). After the park was established, the railroad quickly promoted “America’s Alps” and built Swiss chalet style accommodations to house the well-heeled park visitors. Of course these chalets had plenty of western touches on the interior to remind folks that this was truly an American experience. Gladly many of those properties have survived over the years and still welcome guests today.
Historic West Glacier Train Station located across from the Belton Chalet
Belton Chalet (glacierparkcollection.com) is one of those properties. Built in 1910 — the same year that Glacier National Park was established — this property is conveniently located across the street from the historic West Glacier Train Station. Now a National Landmark, Belton Chalet makes a great stop for rail buffs, and a comfortable overnight stay for everyone. And although the historic building exudes a definite charm of yesteryear, it’s also equipped with modern day access features. As a result, wheelchair-users and slow walkers can now take a step back in time and spend the night in this historic national park chalet.
Belton Chalet
The property is located in West Glacier, off of Highway 2, behind the Belton Tap Room. Just look for the train station across the street. There’s accessible parking with ramp access up to the front door, and plenty of room to roll around on the deck. Inside, the lobby is dominated by a large stone fireplace, with good pathway access over to the front desk. There’s also a large accessible family restroom located near the front desk.
Room 21, which is an accessible queen, is located just off the lobby. It features wide doorways, and wood floors for easy rolling. It’s furnished with a 25-inch high queen-sized bed with wheelchair access on the left side (as you face it), a desk, two chairs, a chest of drawers and a bedside table. Add in the wooden windows, vintage coat hooks, and the transom over the bathroom door for that early 1900s charm. And there’s a real door key — no plastic key cards for this property. As an added bonus, there are no TVs or other electronic distractions in this vintage room. Additionally, Room 21 is especially suited for slow walkers, as it’s just a short distance from the parking area to the room.
Room 21 at Belton Chalet
The oversized bathroom includes a full five-foot turning radius, and is equipped with a large transfer-type shower with grab bars, a hand-held showerhead and a fold-down shower bench. There is about a three inch lip on the shower pan, but there’s plenty of room to transfer to the shower bench from the bathroom. Other access features include toilet grab bars on the back and right walls (as seated), and a roll-under sink.
Bathroom in room 21 at Belton Chalet
The Extras
This property is a must-see for anyone who is interested in railroad history as the hallways are lined with vintage posters and calendars of the Empire Builder. And there’s level access to the deck, where you can see — and hear — the trains pass through. As an added bonus the accessible room is located on the quieter back side of the property; however ear plugs are provided should the passing trains present a problem.
Next door, there’s also level access to the Belton Tap Room from the accessible parking spot. Even if you don’t have dinner there, you’ll want to make sure and listen for the evening Empire Builder train, as the staff lines the restaurant balconies to welcome arriving guests. It’s a page out of railroad history. The train usually rolls in between 9:30 and 10:00 in the evening, but delays are always possible. And if you do decide to have a bite to eat a the Tap Room, reservations are highly recommended.
Add in the little extras like chocolate chip cookies at check-in and coffee and pastries in the morning, and Belton Chalet makes great home base for any Glacier National Park visit. Give it a try on your next visit.
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90942 Kelso Cima Road
